Brooches on suits: costume or comeback?

The numbers are hard to argue with. Pinterest named "Brooched" one of its 2026 trends: searches for the brooch aesthetic rose 110 percent and searches for maximalist accessories 105 percent.1 The same report found a wider 1980s mood it calls Glamoratti, with searches for "80s luxury" up 225 percent and for the gold cuff up 50 percent.1 The brooch sits right between those two ideas.

Why it works now

Suits are softer this season. Mystylebox describes a "soft power" tailoring, relaxed suits and tuxedos replacing stiff ones.2 A relaxed suit can look a little plain. A brooch gives it a focal point without changing the shape. It is also the rare accessory that works on men's and women's tailoring equally well.

Where to pin it

• On the lapel, a hand's width below the collar. This is the classic place and the right one for a first brooch.
• At the collar of a shirt buttoned to the top, instead of a tie. This is the more fashion-forward version.
• On a coat, high on the chest, as the only accessory.

What makes it a costume

More than one brooch. Brooches on a patterned jacket. A brooch with a statement necklace. The 1980s were about more; this revival is about one well-placed thing. Keep the rest of the outfit quiet: plain suit, plain shirt or knit, simple shoes.

One brooch on a plain lapel. That is the comeback.

What kind of brooch

Choose one shape that is easy to read from a distance: a flower, a bow, a single stone, a small animal. Vintage shops are the best source, and the brooch is one of the few accessories where vintage is often better made than new. If you buy new, Rouje sells a small flower brooch, La Broche Sole, for €20 an inexpensive way to test whether you like the look.

The blazer underneath

A black tailored blazer is the most graphic background; a grey herringbone is softer. Whichever you choose, it should have a notched lapel wide enough to hold the pin without it tipping over.

Who should skip it

If you wear a lot of jewellery already, a brooch will compete. Choose one statement: the brooch or the necklace, not both.