One lace dress: dinner, office, weekend

Lace came back on almost every runway this season. Coveteur described the mood as dark romance, with moody lace, corsetry and asymmetric hems at Ann Demeulemeester and Alexander McQueen, and jewel-toned lace minis at Saint Laurent.1 Mystylebox counted lace trims, ruffles and Victorian references among the season's trends, from Dior to Valentino.2 Pinterest found the same idea moving into everyday clothes, under the name "Laced Up".3

The problem with lace is that it looks like an occasion. The fix is to treat one lace dress as a base and change the layer on top.

Our dress

Rouje's LISERON is a midi dress in chocolate lace. Brown instead of black makes it softer and easier to wear in daylight, and the midi length means it can go to the office. It is the piece we built this story on.

Way one: dinner

Wear it on its own, with black knee boots and a small glazed leather bag. Hair down, minimal jewellery. The dress is the statement; do not add a second one. If the evening is cold, a long black coat over it, worn open.

Way two: the office

Put a blazer over it. A black tailored blazer, buttoned once, turns the lace into a texture rather than a mood. Add flat loafers and a structured bag. Under the blazer, only the skirt and neckline show, which is exactly enough lace for a meeting.

Lace under a blazer reads as texture. Lace alone reads as evening.

Way three: the weekend

Layer a chunky knit over it. An ecru cable turtleneck pulled over the dress turns it into a skirt, with lace showing below the knit. Add brown suede ankle boots and a suede shoulder bag. This is the most surprising of the three, and the most comfortable.

What to look for in a lace dress

• A lining. Unlined lace needs a slip and is harder to wear by day.
• A dark colour. Black, brown, navy or bordeaux; white lace is bridal.
• A simple shape. The lace is the detail; the cut should be plain.

Care

Wash lace inside out in a laundry bag, cold, or by hand. Never wring it. Dry flat.